How to plan a mountain bike ride
Do you just ride at trail centres and bike parks, or do you head out for adventures on your bike, exploring and experiencing the inevitability of getting lost?
Trail centres are always a popular choice with mountain bikers. Their facilities and all-weather, way-marked routes provide convenient locations for us to get our mountain biking fix. However, planning your own ride can be a rewarding experience. There are a vast array of byways, bridleways and other rights of way that can be explored on two wheels, opening up the opportunity to discover some true wild riding, adventures and exploration. But planning a mountain bike ride isn’t that straight forward as there are certain factors that we need to consider such as …
Terrain
Timing
Ability
Start and finish points
Weather
and importantly,
Access Rights
Maps are your most important route planning and navigational tool, but you do need to know how to use them so let’s start there.
Maps
The best maps for planning your routes are the OS Explorer 1:25 000 or 1:50 000 scale maps. The difference between the two is the level of detail they provide. 1:25 000 scale maps are more useful for complex areas with a confusing array of tracks such as in a forest, but in general a 1:50 000 scale map should be adequate for most types of ride you will likely want to plan.
Personally I start by laying a paper map out to give me a clearer idea of the area where I’m planning the route, I come up with a route and then plot it out using the OS Maps Online system. This makes it easy to transfer to my GPS device.
Even though I use a GPS device, I always carry a paper map, or sheet, as a backup in case of emergency.
Understanding Maps
I’m not going to fully explain how to use a map as that is far too detailed for this post. Instead I will stick to the very basics, such as how to interpret the terrain, and too judge where you can and can’t ride.
An OS Map provides useful geographical information so you need to be able to interpret its features. With practice you will be able to look at a map and envisage all the contours and gradients as they are on the ground.
Contour lines are usually shown as brown lines and have their respective height above sea level indicated at intervals. The heights are indicated in metres with 10m spacing between contour lines. Where contour lines are widely spread, this indicates a flatter area. Where as when the lines are closer together this indicates a steeper gradient.
The picture above highlights the link between the shape of a hill and the contours representing it on a map. Image courtesy of Ordnance Survey
You also want to know the distance of any route you are planning, or at the very least have an estimate on the distance. On OS Maps, the grid lines are spaced at 1km apart; therefore, it should be relatively easy to estimate distance by comparing your route to the number of grid squares it corresponds to. If you want to be more accurate you can use some string to measure your route. On a 1:50 000 scale map, 1cm equates to 500m and on a 1:25 000 scale map it equates to 250m. So for example, if on a 1:25 000 scale map your route measures 50cm, on the ground the actual distance would be 50 times 250m, which is 12,500m (12.5km).
Another important ability when reading maps is that you are able to find your location using a grid reference. This is especially important should you need to contact any emergency services such as mountain rescue.
OS Maps are covered in a series of blue grid lines. These lines help you pinpoint an exact location anywhere on the map. The horizontal lines are called ‘eastings’ and the vertical lines are called ‘northings’. The grid lines divide the country up into large 100km squares, with each square numbered from 0-99. Each square is also given a unique two-letter reference code i.e SK. These square are then divided into smaller 1km squares.
A map showing all the unique two-letter reference codes.
If you need to pinpoint a more specific location on a map, which you will need to for emergency purposes, you need to use a six-figure grid reference. To do this you need to imagine that the 1km square is divided up into 100 tiny squares with 10 squares along each side.
A 1km square split into 100 tiny squares. What reference would you give to the box?
It’s important that if you need to give a grid reference that it is read in the right order, always giving eastings then northings. The easiest way to remember this is by using a rhyme like ‘along the corridor, up the stairs’ i.e always measure along before measuring up.
X marks the spot. In this case grid reference SK 057 889.
For the tech savvy, Ordnance Survey also have also created an awesome app called OS Locate, which will give you an exact location point using grid references, and it doesn’t even need a signal. But if your phone isn’t working being able to locate yourself on a map is an important skill to learn.
Possibly more important than being able to interpret a maps many features are to know your access rights.
Where can you legally ride?
In Britain access rights vary between countries so when you decide to plan your own route you need to be aware of where you are legally allowed to ride. In England and Wales, mountain biking is restricted to:
Bridleways - Way-marked by a blue arrow. A network of tracks open to walkers, cyclists, horse riders and horse drawn vehicles. Cyclists must give way to walkers and horse riders if encountered.
Restricted Byways - Way-marked by a purple arrow. A network of tracks open to walkers, cyclists, horse riders and horse drawn vehicles. Cyclists must give way to walkers and horse riders if encountered.
Byway Open To All Traffic - Way-marked by a red arrow. A network of tracks open to walkers, cyclists, horse riders and horse drawn vehicles, or any other vehicle including cars and motorbikes.
Towpaths - Cyclists are required to obtain the landowners permission to cycle on a towpath unless it’s marked as a bridleway.
Cycle Paths - Designated routes specifically for cyclists.
The National Cycle Network - Mapped by Sustrans.
Cycling UK put together this simple explanation of where mountain bikers can ride.
Public access is quite a complex issue, but access rights for mountain bikers should be fairly well signposted, just remember they are public routes often shared with other users. So where ever you ride always be courteous, ride responsibly, follow the countryside code, and make sure you slow down when required. In Scotland access rights are very different. Everyone including cyclists, has a statutory right to access most land provided it is done so in a responsible manner.
If you are unsure of the status of any of the trails you plan to ride, you can check with your local Public Rights of Way Officer (PROW).
Terrain, timing and the weather
The type of terrain can play a big role on how long your route will take to ride. The difference in speed between riding on a forest track to riding on open moorland can be huge. It’s also worth bearing in mind that the weather can play a part in the conditions of any trails, especially on open moorland. It goes without saying that if there has been a lot of recent rainfall, the trails will not only be wet, but what were once small streams may now be difficult to cross. Even on sunny days if it has been very wet, and the trails are soaked, you can still get cold very quickly. Don’t forget to consider the wind speed and its direction as well. Strong winds will not only reduce your average speed on exposed trails, they will also potentially sap your energy, but conversely it may also mean higher average speeds if the wind is coming from behind you.
The weather will not only dictate what you wear but it should also influence your route choice. In certain environments, especially mountainous, the weather can change in a blink of an eye. So you should always ride prepared and ready for any eventualities that may occur.
Alongside the weather conditions the time taken to ride your route will mostly affected by the terrain, including the gradients and the amount of climbing involved, the distance, and the ability of all the riders involved. Remember that a group of riders are only as strong as the weakest. So whether a particular climb is rideable will depend partly on the trail condition, partly on the difficulty of the climb, and partly on the ability of the riders.
Will you be riding up technical rocky climbs, or will most of the climbing take place on fire roads?
Are there any potential hike-a-bike sections?
These are all factors that you should consider when planning a route.
The start and finish points
I would always advise where possible to start the ride on a relatively flat section, or at most a very gentle climb, this will help ensure that you warm up sufficiently. The last thing you want is a steep climb right at the very start before you’ve had chance to warm up. You also want to take into consideration whether your start point is safe and secure for parking. Also consider if there are any facilities on site such as toilets and changing rooms, and of course the all essential cafe, or pub. If not it’s worth taking some additional supplies with you for the post ride munchies. A great way to finish a ride is with a sweeping single track descent, but that’s not always possible if you are planning on starting and finishing at the same point, which you will inevitably be planning. Should you decide to plan a one-way route, just remember to make sure you organise a way of getting back to the start, it’s often easier said than done. If you plan on using trains, it’s worth noting that sometimes reservations are required on certain services, and there may be restrictions on peak time travel. Different train companies have different rules about bringing your bikes onboard so always double check, or you may end up having to ride all the back.
Summary
Planning a mountain bike ride isn’t as straight forward as you may think. There are many factors to consider, but if you’re prepared to get lost once in a while, to explore and hunt out trails you’ve never ridden before, creating your own epic ride can truly be a rewarding experience.
It just takes a bit of practice, which means going out on your bike more, and that’s never a bad thing!